I have a philosophy about food tours. You should never leave hungry in belly or in mind. Behind every great dish, there should be more than just flavor, there should also be a story. With the Small Group Budapest Jewish Cuisine and Culture Walking Tour, I was fully satisfied, in both senses.
On the Sabbath, Jews are not allowed to cook—but they are allowed to eat. This leads to some very creative, and tasty, solutions. It’s certainly not what I expected. Strangely, this strict culinary tradition has not hampered the food, it has improved it.
I knew very little about Jewish culture. This was one of the reasons I was so intrigued to join the tour and learn more about Jewish Budapest. Budapest was actually a center for Judaism before WWII. In fact, Budapest is home to the Dohány Grand Synagogue, the largest in Europe.
Ruins from the Orthodox Synagogue.
A tragic genocide began in Budapest in 1944, and many never made it back to their homes in the 7th District or Jewish Quarter. Those who did survive, and came back to rebuild their broken lives, still had to weather the communist occupation until 1989. Now the modest community that lives around Budapest’s 7th district keeps the faith, and the food, alive.
Our first food stop with our guide, Ana, is for Flodni. A semi-sweet, 4 layered cake made with plum jam, walnuts, apple and poppy seeds. As I mentioned, the foods have a story and, for Flodni, it was designed to meet the criteria of Passover. It had to be made without the use of any fermented grains.
Flodni cake.
The food on this tour is plentiful but well spaced out. After each food stop, there is a culture stop, to allow for digestion. One of the most interesting was a visit to the Orthodox Synagogue, different from the Grand Synagogue. Years of neglect during the communist era led to the Orthodox Synagogue to fall into disrepair. Fortunately, the current community has fully restored the building in the original 1902 art-deco style, painted pale blue and lit by domed chandeliers.
The location where you eat your first lunch, yes “first” lunch, may vary – by the discretion of the guide. What is certain afterwards is a visit to Budapest’s original and most famous ruin bar – Szimpla Kert.
Art at Szimpla Kert.
In the early 21st century, locals decided to re-purpose the derelict buildings and turn them into bars. Rather than refurbish, they simply repaired important structural damage and dressed up the ruins with artworks, chairs and a bar. So the ruin bar was born.
The abstract, endless artistic madness of Szimpla Kert is hard to describe, you need to see it to believe it. I was very overwhelmed by how strange and prolific the works are.
It is common after eating in Hungary to drink the local moonshine, Palinka. How can I put this? …It’s strong. It is generally distilled from fruit – plum and apple being a common variety. Typically 40-50% alcohol, there are varieties over 70%. I decide to give my insides a break and avoid the paint-stripping 70% option.
Palinka (moonshine) in a car turned seating area.
Instead I warm my throat with a more agreeable 40% apple Palinka. Sitting inside a small car that has been converted into a seating area, I feel the burn and aid the digestion ready for lunch number two.
Our final food stop is a long standing establishment that actually operated throughout the communist era without restriction. We are served the “Solet,” a slow cooked dish of beans. The dish is prepared and the cooking begins on a Friday afternoon, before sunset, so as not to violate the rules against cooking on the Sabbath. Then the dish, having simmered overnight, is served only by women, to the family on Saturday.
Solet, a flavorful stew made with beans and meat.
For wealthier families, and for this tasting, additions to the beans are beef brisket, goose leg and stuffed goose neck. It’s a rich, warming meal and, of course, the meat of the goose falls off the bone.
After the many snacks, two meals and tastings of various alcohols it’s hard to do much else but head back to my room to sleep. The Jewish community of Budapest has fared some tough times but from repression comes creativity and it certainly shows in the cuisine and the architecture that I discovered on this tour.
Check out more things to do in Budapest!
- Contributed by Meagan Collins
Exploring Jewish Cuisine and Culture in Budapest from Budapest Things to Do